Sapanta Cemetery: The Merry Cemetery of Sapanta

The Merry Cemetery is a unique and fascinating cemetery located in Northern Romania in the famous Maramures region.

How can a cemetery be famous?

It seems to take a cheerful approach, as the crosses tell the stories of people's lives with a touch of irony and turn the moment of passing into a celebration, rather than grieving death.

Introduction

Nestled in the small town of Săpânța, the Merry Cemetery stands as a testament to a unique and fascinating approach to death. Unlike any other cemetery, this one is seen as an open-air museum

Each of the over 800 wooden crosses is adorned with naïve paintings and epitaphs that reveal the stories, flaws, and imperfections of those who once lived in this quaint Romanian town.

The creator of the Merry Cemetery

The Merry Cemetery owes its origins to the creative genius of local artist Stan Ioan Pătraş, who, in 1935, carved the first wooden cross, wider than regular crosses, and an epitaph with rhymes.

By the end of his life, in 1977, he created 700 crosses depicting the life stories of people he knew.

He even carved his own cross on which he put "[...] / Stan Ion Pătraș was my name /Listen to me, my good people /Because I will tell no lie /All the days I have lived I wished no harm to anyone /[...]/Oh, this poor world of mine/[...]"

Pătraş’s work laid the foundation for what would become a cultural phenomenon. Even his house has interesting sculptures and traditional carvings which you can see.

His most talented apprentice, Dumitru Pop, continued his work and managed the memorial house.

History and Significance

They are inspired by the Dacian culture, where dying was not seen as the end of existence and one should do it laughing, which would explain the Romanian's ability to joke even when faced with the grave.

The Merry Cemetery gained recognition when a French journalist discovered it and presented it to the outside world. It was then praised for its vibrant and cheerful take on traditionally sad subjects.

Unique Features

The wooden tombstone crosses are each set against a distinctive blue background and framed with ornate floral borders. Crafted using traditional woodworking techniques of Maramureș County, they are carved with hand chisels and painted with vivid colors.

What sets them apart are the epitaphs, often written in iambic tetrameter, usually penned in the first person, giving the impression that the deceased wrote their life summary.

The tombstones also feature portraits of the deceased and scenes from their everyday lives, such as praying, eating, and working, making each a unique narrative. Even how they died.

The wooden crosses are all similar—each has a bas-relief on the upper part, painted to illustrate a scene from the deceased's life, and the lower end has a written part, often in the present tense.

The “Heavy Cross Lies” Tradition - the "poor mother-in-law"

One of the most famous epitaphs at Sapanta is that of a woman whose son-in-law supposedly penned a humorous and somewhat cheeky tribute.

The epitaph reads: “Underneath this heavy cross / Lies my poor mother-in-law / Three more days she would have lived / I would die, and she would read / You, who here are passing by / Not to wake her up please try / For if she comes back home / She’ll criticize me even more / But I will surely behave / That she won’t return from hell / Stay here, my dear mother-in-law.”

Many of them show what people used to be when they were alive, like their professions or things they were best known in the community for.

If someone died in an unusual way, it would be humorously depicted and a funny epitaph would be drafted.

Or if someone has some shortcomings all the village knew about, they would also be mentioned: “Ioan Toaderu loved horses. One more thing he loved very much. To sit at a table in a bar. Next to someone else's wife.”

Or the town drunk whose cross is adorned with the image of a black skeleton dragging him down while he swigs from a bottle marked as real poison.

Visiting the Merry Cemetery

The Merry Cemetery welcomes visitors daily from 10:00 to 18:00, with tickets priced at 4 Lei (approximately 1 euro). As a popular tourist destination, arriving early during the summer is advisable to avoid the crowds.

Visitors can wander through the colorful church and its cemetery, admiring the colorful crosses, each with its unique epitaph and naive painting of the dead.

Merry Cemetery: A Unique Tradition in Northern Romania

Ranked among the top European cemeteries, the one in Sapanta is ranked second-best worldwide after the "Valley of the Kings" in Egypt. Quite an accomplishment for this little corner of the world!

Over the decades, the cemetery has grown in popularity, attracting over 200,000 visitors annually. Imperator Travel recognized it as one of the Seven Wonders of Romania.

The Merry Cemetery is celebrated for its unique approach to life and death and as a valuable cultural heritage site that offers a glimpse into the traditions and beliefs of Maramureș County.

If you plan to visit Merry Cemetery of Sapanta, don’t forget to check the nearby trips in Transylvania Countryside and available Cluj-Napoca tours.

Romanian Friend Tip: If you are in the area during August, don’t miss the Long Way to The Merry Cemetery festival. Local musicians, craftsmen, and dancers gather to make the festival an authentic experience. You can find more info about the festival here.

If you are planning to visit Merry Cemetery of Sapanta - don't forget to check the close trips in Transylvania Countryside and available Cluj-Napoca tours.